I had to go to Texsom this year. Missing last year because of the move to Minnesota was a huge bummer. So, having been in our new apartment for a mere 10 days, I made the 13 hour journey… and it was worth it.
For the uninitiated, Texsom is a 2 (3) day event during which sommeliers from all over Texas gather at the Four Seasons in Las Colinas (near Dallas). The weekend is full seminars ranging from wine basics all the way to the super-geeky, all led by Master Sommeliers. Not to mention, those eligible compete in the Texas’ Best Sommelier competition.
I should also note that this will be a long read, so take it in sessions if you insist on reading the whole thing – it was basically three days of wine classes. Pictures of the days’ schedules are posted throughout if you’d like a glimpse of what we tasted and discussed.
Saturday was a day of options. I took the option going to a Blind Tasting masterclass to refresh my abilities on a professional level. A lot of my peers blew it off since it’s something that’s been beat into our heads since we began our careers. I am very glad I went. The tips alone are worth the time, and of course refreshing myself on the methodology never hurts.
Saturday’s schedule and wines
The geeky stuff followed. The Kimmeridgian chain led my MS Wayne Belding. I have been all over acid and minerality driven wines this summer and this was the cherry on my sundae. I won’t go into a ton of details, but basically Kimmeridgian limestone is a layer of prehistoric soil that runs along a line, exposed in various important wine regions, throughout France from Sancerre in the Loire to Chablis in Burgundy to the Aube in Champagne. It’s exposure in these areas is paramount in producing fantastic wines of great acidity and minerality. In Chablis, it is mandated that the Grand Cru wines of the region MUST be on Kimmeridgian soil, and not on the younger, portlandian soil that sits on top of it in most areas. If you’re familiar with the white cliffs of Dover in England, it’s the same rock. In a nutshell, that’s it. The wines were phenomenal, and my teeth actually hurt later that night when I brushed my teeth from all of the acidity. A wonderfully enamel-melting experience.
Saturday’s relatively short day was a blessing. It enabled me to catch up with some old friends in the afternoon, while tasting more wines of course, and get some rest before the marathon of the next two days.
Sunday, the festivities actually began! What a start it was. There’s nothing like waking up and having 8 glasses of Bordeaux staring you down, daring you to be able to taste anything after their departure from your palate. All but one were of the 2008 vintage, and just too young to drink. I have not had this many classes growths in one sitting before (hopefully that will change soon), and I could just imagine them all mocking me in a french accent, guffawing and declaring my incompetence for drinking them as adolescents. I felt that they did show some character beyond the insane tannins that they threw at us, but it was pretty rough to get through at 9:30 am. Still, I learned even more about Bordeaux.
Sunday’s schedule
Texas was the next seminar. I… tend to worry when it comes to this presentation. Texas consumes a ton of wine, and a lot of their own, but unfortunately we don’t do a very good job of growing what we should. One problem is that Texas needs to grow more grapes. The crop is never big enough to supply all of the Texas wine drinkers, so wineries have to source grapes from outside the state. Yeah, this is a problem, but I think the real problem is that Texas doesn’t grow enough of the right varieties of grapes. What do I mean by this? Texas is hot as hell and there isn’t enough water in most of the regions. Why then are we still trying to grow varieties that aren’t suited to the climate? I understand that growers and wine makers want to make what sells, but by making crappy versions of what sells, you’re selling yourself and the drinker short. Instead, make good wine out of grapes that do well and educate the drinkers. The best in the flight were actually whites – the Duchman Vermentino, and the McPherson Roussanne. The whites really outshone the reds, even the red priced at over $100 per bottle. I won’t tell you which that was, but it’s a ballsy move. A true example of price not indicating quality.
Sunday’s schedule, continued
Ahh riesling. My Minnesota summer fling. I’ve been buying this stuff all summer. Mostly the drier versions, but a sweeter one will sneak in there occasionally. I love riesling. It’s complex with a menagerie of aromas, bright acidity, sometimes lip smacking sweetness, and overall an amazing grape. Most people see riesling and immediately scoff at them because they’re perceived as overly sweet and cloying, and I have to say that you’re missing out. Ask questions and find some drier versions, or at least those with some balance. Quit buying the blue nun and look for something with more words that you don’t understand, and you’ll get some that are more interesting. And spend a little money too. You can get great rieslings for $15. We drank some fun ones in the seminar, and 3 of the 8 were from the US, which was unexpected but encouraging. We’ve got some good ones made right in our back yard – Dr. Konstantin Frank from New York, Eroica from Columbia Valley, and the Stoney Hill from Napa was a surprise too.
Oregon followed the tasting break (yes, we had wine after our wine, and before our next wine). This was an interesting concept. Instead of just diving into the wines or getting overly geeky, the MS’s Fred Dame and Nate Ready chose to go with a particular theme for the region. Hippy and cowboy wines. It fit their personalities quite well, and if you’ve ever met Fred Dame you know he was the cowboy. I’d never met Nate Ready previously, but he was certainly the hippy. The wines showed these characters perfectly, and the room was split on which they preferred. I leaned towards the more hippy style. For me it’s the way pinot noir should be – fragrant, complex, with more balanced tannins and acidity. The cowboy wines were very good as well, but I preferred the softer, more feminine pinots.
The last seminar of Sunday was beer. It was a basic beer seminar and we drank some good examples of the styles necessary to know. I was jumping out of my seat the whole time. I wanted to teach the seminar. Brian Cronin and Melissa Monosoff did a great job, but I wanted to be up there with them. I think that what I wanted to say the most is that as sommeliers, it is our job to guide guests to the best beverage possible for their experience. That being said, it’s a damn shame how many restaurants and bars have fantastic wine lists and completely drop the ball on beer. Sorry, but if you stop short on your beverage list, whether it be beer, cocktails, or even the wine, your job isn’t done. Yeah, you say you are a bar/restaurant that’s focused on beer/cocktails/wine (pick one), but it’s not that difficult to pick four interesting selections of the other. Don’t half-ass your beverage program.
Sunday night was a night of moderate consumption, and great company. We behaved and didn’t stay out too late – we knew Monday would be the night for that.
Monday began with a State of the Industry panel. Very interesting to those of us in the business, but I will not go into detail. I will say though that there was one panelist that caused a bit of drama (not that there isn’t enough already in the business), by saying that the event and those attending were too detached from our consumer. An interesting point, though a bit misguided. He criticized Texsom for not being customer friendly and not having seminars on how to sell to the consumer. While that would be a good seminar, the casual wine drinker is not the audience for Texsom. The audience is the professional sommelier, the wine geek, the guys wanting to become Master Sommeliers in the future, not the consumer. This is our opportunity to geek out to the extreme. It is then our job as professionals to filter through all of the geology, chemistry, wine tasting party trick techniques, and frankly the bullshit, and then turn it into something sellable. If we can’t sell it, we don’t survive. We know that. By the way, my former colleague called him out on this. It was entertaining. Anyway, hopping off of the soapbox.
Monday’s Schedule
New Zealand: Trends for the Future was next. Led by New Zealand’s own MS, Cameron Douglas, along with MS Andrew McNamara. This was a neat little seminar. New Zealand doesn’t have to be all about sauvignon blanc. In fact, it does have a growing number of varietals coming out of its two little islands, including pinot noir, syrah, a few different styles of chardonnay, riesling, merlot, and malbec. Go out and find something new from New Zealand. They’re doing a good job with stuff other than sauvignon blanc.
Niagara was next, and what I was looking forward to the most for the day. Having moved to the region I was eager to learn what it had to offer… and I was very pleasantly surprised. MS John Szabo chose to focus on the expression of the area’s terroir, and showed only pinots and chards. They were very nice wines, and they were a lot better that I had expected from such a relatively young region. These are certainly wines worth checking out – especially if you do a little research and see who’s doing it right. See which ones we tasted and go from there.
Monday’s Schedule Continued
The Cabernet Franc seminar was a hoot. The group of MS’s that ran that panel were having way too much fun. Not much about the grape or regions, but the wines were very good. I was very excited about the 2000 Alzero, the Chinon, La Jota… hell all of them were fun wines. One of the presenters had a fun slip of the tongue too, but I won’t embarrass her any more.
Finally, the last of the sessions for the weekend – Leonetti Cellars retrospective. Leonetti is one of the founding wineries in Washington and the wines showed exactly why . We stared with a 1985 ‘Reserve’ cab that was still showing nicely. The 2000 was the winner for the flight though and was absolutely stellar. There were some great merlots as well, and some sangiovese of theirs that has become popular for them. I wasn’t a fan of the sangio’s but that’s just my opinion. If you ever have a chance to have any of the Leonetti wines, enjoy them. They’re not cheap, and they’re not regularly available.
We then snuck out to a quick dinner at Charlie Palmers, and had a tasty 3 course dinner. The Monday of Texsom perfectly coincides with Dallas Restaurant week, so we saved a bit of cash doing their pre fix menu. We were hoping that their regular menu was available, but our dinner was good. We had an Austrian riesling to start, that was solid – at the end of the meal when it warmed up enough, and an ’04 Cornas that was very good… I wish I could remember whose it was. Dinner was an heirloom tomato salad, a dry rubbed and grilled flat iron steak on a bed of caramelized onions (which was very good), and whipped chocolate and chocolate donuts for dessert. I highly recommend you go to Charlie Palmers on a Monday night for their 1/2 price wine night. The food was pretty darn tasty, even if the service left some serious room for improvement.
We then rushed back to the Four Seasons for the Grand Tasting and the awarding of Texas’ Best Sommelier. The wines were good, and the award ceremony was good. I didn’t know the winner, but I was glad to see someone that got his ass kicked 4 years ago when I first competed take 3rd. Good for him sticking through it. It’s a very hard competition.
We finished off the night with way too much fun. Pete and I went through a few bottles of Jester King (Drinkin’ in the Sunbelt, and Boxer’s Revenge), then headed down to the bar and joined the party. He brought down some Rahr to follow up my Campari and soda, which was promptly followed up by a cigar to accompany Jester King’s Black Metal Stout – which we didn’t finish. The JK was interrupted by a MS joining us and bringing along a friend with a bottle of 03 German riesling, Kistler’s Cuvee Cathleen, Sonoma Valley, and Cuvee Elixabeth, 1982 Ch. Desmirail Margaux, and 1982 Ch. Saint-Pierre Saint Julien. After that particular MS left for bed, we began to debate about traditional and new methods of maintaining terroir (dirt). We argued long enough, to realize that the Hippie MS from the Oregon seminar was on the terrace above us. We all got up (I believe there were 4 of us), and plopped down to join him and get his opinion (more arguing about dirt). It was a good night.
As usual, great nights make for rough mornings. Fortunately, I rarely partake in such extravagant nights of indulging, but the company and place were perfect for it. I always fear the next day. Somehow, I woke up – without an alarm – with time to spare in getting ready for my 8 am taxi ride to the airport. My travel companion took the night off and was in good form. No problems whatsoever on the day’s travel, which is good because my head may have exploded otherwise.
It’s good being home finally. The apartment is nearly finished, but I suppose more importantly the job hunt has begun.
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Drink well!
~ the Hungry Wino
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Real knowledge is to know the extent of one’s ignorance.
~ Confucius